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These instructions also apply to the HTC Himalayas, the casing assembly is 99.999 % identical.
First, a note of caution. This is a *guide* you follow at your own risk. If you are in any way unsure, don't try it.
THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY so only do it if you REALLY have to, for example you need to replace a smashed LCD. Remember kids, crying to HTC won't help if you can't get it back together again
You'll need a good torx T6, a small philips, a small flat blade screwdriver and a plastic tool to prise open the case.
( I am working on the phone face down for reference to directions )
The most difficult part of this is removing the aeriel cover in one piece without breaking it. The clips are very shallow so you have to get the small flatblade screwdriver almost down flat in the battery compartment pushin up into the catch release areas. Once they are release there are also 2 locating lugs that you need to lift clear of the main chassis before you can edge the aeriel cover away from the base. Take your time.
Once that's off, remove the 2 torx at the bottom of the chassis frame ( 1 is under the void sticker ), and the two either side of the aeriel, remove the aeriel and then remove the 4 small philips screws from under the battery area.
Next, use your case opening tool to prise the bottom chassis away from the top. Start with the headphone socket side as there are only 3 clips - there are 4 or on the other side.
To removed the main board, disconnect the screen ribbon from the middle right ( some are gates, some are push fittings depending on build date ), and remove the small philips screws in the top right, bottom left and right of the main board. Use your case opening tool to lever the board up from the screen assembly.
The screen itself is held in by one bracket at the top with 2 small philips screws. Thise also holds the speaker in place.
Re-assembly is the reverse of this process. Nothing too difficult if you managed this ok - lots of room inside there!
I'll do a board level comparison with Himalayas when I have chance. There are major differences in the location of most componants so I wonder why they re-used the casing design?
Richard
First, a note of caution. This is a *guide* you follow at your own risk. If you are in any way unsure, don't try it.
THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY so only do it if you REALLY have to, for example you need to replace a smashed LCD. Remember kids, crying to HTC won't help if you can't get it back together again
You'll need a good torx T6, a small philips, a small flat blade screwdriver and a plastic tool to prise open the case.
( I am working on the phone face down for reference to directions )
The most difficult part of this is removing the aeriel cover in one piece without breaking it. The clips are very shallow so you have to get the small flatblade screwdriver almost down flat in the battery compartment pushin up into the catch release areas. Once they are release there are also 2 locating lugs that you need to lift clear of the main chassis before you can edge the aeriel cover away from the base. Take your time.
Once that's off, remove the 2 torx at the bottom of the chassis frame ( 1 is under the void sticker ), and the two either side of the aeriel, remove the aeriel and then remove the 4 small philips screws from under the battery area.
Next, use your case opening tool to prise the bottom chassis away from the top. Start with the headphone socket side as there are only 3 clips - there are 4 or on the other side.
To removed the main board, disconnect the screen ribbon from the middle right ( some are gates, some are push fittings depending on build date ), and remove the small philips screws in the top right, bottom left and right of the main board. Use your case opening tool to lever the board up from the screen assembly.
The screen itself is held in by one bracket at the top with 2 small philips screws. Thise also holds the speaker in place.
Re-assembly is the reverse of this process. Nothing too difficult if you managed this ok - lots of room inside there!
I'll do a board level comparison with Himalayas when I have chance. There are major differences in the location of most componants so I wonder why they re-used the casing design?
Richard
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